Clicking in a corner: A sound every driver recognises
You are driving along, enter a tighter corner, press the gas and... tick-tick-tick-tick. A rhythmic clicking coming from somewhere around the front wheel. If you have ever heard this sound, you almost certainly know what it is: the CV joint is done. And now you have a choice. New? Used? Complete driveshaft? Just the joint? We will clear up all those dilemmas in order.
CV joints (constant velocity joints, as many call them) are a key part of the drivetrain on every front-wheel-drive or all-wheel-drive vehicle. They transfer torque from the gearbox to the wheels, while allowing the wheel to turn left and right (for steering) and up and down (for the suspension). Without them, front-wheel drive simply would not be possible.
Anatomy of the drivetrain: What is what
Before we talk about used parts, we have to be precise with terminology because the terms often get mixed up.
Driveshaft (half shaft)
The driveshaft is the complete unit that consists of the shaft (steel rod) and two joints: the inner one (closer to the gearbox) and the outer one (closer to the wheel). Each joint has its own protective boot (rubber or plastic) that keeps grease in and dirt out.
Outer CV joint
This is the joint on the wheel side. Usually a Rzeppa type (ball-type joint) that can work at large angles (up to 45 degrees or more). This joint fails most often because it works at greater angles and load. When you hear clicking in a corner, it is almost always the outer joint.
Inner CV joint
The joint on the gearbox side. Usually a tripod type (with three rollers) or Rzeppa type. It works at smaller angles than the outer one, but has to compensate for axial movement (the wheel moving towards and away from the gearbox as the suspension works). It fails less often than the outer.
CV boot
A rubber or thermoplastic cover that protects the joint. This is actually the most common "culprit" behind joint failure. When the boot splits (from age, ozone, road stones), grease comes out and dust, water and grit get in. Without grease and with abrasive particles, the joint is destroyed within a few thousand kilometres.
Why buy a used driveshaft instead of just the joint
Here is something many people do not consider: it is often cheaper and simpler to buy a complete used driveshaft than to replace just the joint on the existing one.
Why? Because replacing just the joint requires special tools, knowledge and time. The joint has to be pressed off the shaft (it is usually on splines and secured with a snap ring), old grease has to be cleaned out, new grease packed in, a new boot fitted. That is one to two hours of work for a mechanic.
Replacing a complete driveshaft? You remove the old one (usually 4 to 6 bolts and one nut), fit the new one. Half an hour of work. The price of a used complete driveshaft is often the same or slightly higher than the price of just a new joint. And you get both joints, the shaft and the boots.
Here is a cost comparison for a typical model (e.g. VW Golf 5, 2.0 TDI):
- New aftermarket outer joint: 30 to 60 EUR + boot 10 EUR + labour 60 to 100 EUR = 100 to 170 EUR
- Used complete driveshaft: 60 to 120 EUR + labour 30 to 50 EUR = 90 to 170 EUR
- New aftermarket complete driveshaft: 80 to 150 EUR + labour 30 to 50 EUR = 110 to 200 EUR
- New OEM driveshaft: 250 to 500 EUR + labour = 280 to 550 EUR
See? A used driveshaft is competitive even with the option of replacing only the joint, and fitting is simpler and faster.
How to check a used driveshaft
This is the key part. The driveshaft is a mechanically loaded component and must be in good condition. Here is how to check it:
Joint checks
- Hold the joint with one hand and the shaft with the other. Try moving them in different directions. There must be no looseness or "dead play". Any looseness means a worn joint.
- Rotate the joint. It should turn smoothly, without snagging, grinding or clicking. If you feel it "skip" or click, the joint is worn.
- Bend the joint at an angle and rotate. This is how the joint works in the vehicle. At an angle the load is greater and damage is more apparent.
Boot checks
- Visual inspection - The boot must not have cracks, cuts or holes. Even a small crack means grease is escaping and dust is getting in.
- Elasticity - The rubber boot must be elastic, not rigid. If it is hard and brittle, it is on the way to splitting.
- Clamps - The clamps at both ends of the boot must be firmly tightened.
Shaft checks
- Straightness - The shaft must be perfectly straight. A bent shaft causes vibrations at higher speeds.
- Splines - The splines at the ends of the shaft (that go into the joint and hub) must be undamaged, without wear or corrosion.
- ABS ring - Many driveshafts have an ABS sensor ring. It must be intact and in place. Without it, the ABS system will not work properly.
Common problems and their symptoms
To help you diagnose problems on your vehicle more easily, here is a rundown of symptoms and what they mean:
Clicking in a corner under acceleration - The outer joint is worn. The louder the clicking, the worse the joint. Do not wait for it to disintegrate completely because you can lose drive at the worst possible moment.
Vibrations at constant speed - A bent shaft or worn inner joint. Vibrations are usually strongest in the 80 to 120 km/h range.
A clunk when shifting from forward to reverse - Worn inner joint (too much axial play).
Grease patches on the inside of the wheel or on the ground under the car - Split boot. Grease spreads by centrifugal force and ends up everywhere. If you notice this early, the joint can probably still be saved by replacing the boot and grease.
Humming or droning that changes with speed - Could be a worn wheel bearing, but also an inner CV joint. Check both.
Used vs. new aftermarket driveshaft
This is a debate that often runs on forums, and both camps have arguments.
For a used OEM driveshaft:
- Original material and build quality
- Proven durability (if it ran 150,000 km without issues, it will probably do another 100,000)
- Exact compatibility with the vehicle (no surprises at fitting)
- Usually quieter in operation than cheap aftermarket
For a new aftermarket driveshaft:
- New boots and grease (no worries about the rubber's condition)
- Manufacturer warranty
- No load history
- Easy to find for popular models
My personal view: a quality used OEM driveshaft with good boots and no joint looseness is better than cheap Chinese aftermarket that may have worse metallurgy, imprecise tolerances and boots that split after a year. But quality aftermarket (GKN, SKF, Lobro) is a perfectly acceptable choice.
Special cases: AWD and 4x4 vehicles
Vehicles with all-wheel drive have twice as many driveshafts and CV joints. In addition to the front ones, there are rear driveshafts and the propshaft that links the front and rear differential. All these components use similar joints and boots.
For AWD vehicles, used parts are especially interesting because new ones are extremely expensive. A complete rear driveshaft for a BMW xDrive or Audi Quattro can cost 400 to 800 euros new, and a used one 100 to 250 euros.
Tips for buying on the PoDi platform
When looking for a used driveshaft or CV joint, here is the information you must state in the request:
- Exact vehicle model and year of production
- Engine and gearbox type (manual or automatic)
- Which side (left or right)
- Front or rear (if AWD)
- Number of ABS teeth on the sensor ring (if you know)
- OEM part number (if available)
The more precisely you describe what you need, the faster you will get an exact offer. Send a request for a used driveshaft and our suppliers will get in touch with available options and prices.
CV joint maintenance
To finish, a few tips on how to extend the life of CV joints, whether new or used:
- Regularly check the boots - At least once a year (or at each service) check the condition of the boots. Early replacement of a split boot costs 30 to 50 euros. Replacement of a destroyed joint: 150+ euros.
- Do not hold the steering wheel at full lock - When the wheel is at full lock and you accelerate (e.g. while parking), the joint works at maximum angle and load. Avoid this when possible.
- Watch out for road potholes - Strong impacts can damage a joint or bend a shaft.
- React to early signs - As soon as you hear the first clicking or notice grease on the wheel, react. The longer you wait, the more expensive the repair.
CV joints and driveshafts are parts that buy well used. The check is relatively simple, the saving is significant, and the risk is minimal if you know what to look for. I hope this guide has helped. Good luck with the repair!